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Budapest is the capital city of Hungary. Home to some 1.8 million
inhabitants, it is the country's commercial and administrative center.
Understand
Located on both sides of the Danube River and featuring both the
rolling hills of Buda
(on the west bank) and the organized, grid like layout of
Pest
(east bank), these two very different cities united by convenience into one city
offer the traveler a Viennese-style aura at half the price. But Budapest
(pronounced "BOO-dah-pesht") is still very much its own city. The people are
charming, and for the most part very helpful. They are proud of what this
ancient capital has to offer, and proud of their contributions to European
culture, especially in the field of music, a universal language one doesn't need
to speak to appreciate.
Orientation
The Chain Bridge and a view of Pest
Aside from the river itself, the best reference points for orienting yourself
are the bridges crossing the river. From north to south, they are:
- Árpád Bridge (Árpád híd), a modern bridge linking to
northern Margaret Island. The longest bridge in Budapest with its 973 meters.
- Margaret Bridge (Margit híd), easily identified thanks to
its distinctive angled shape with a mid-bridge branch to Margaret Island;
trams 4 and 6 cross the Danube here
- Chain Bridge (Széchenyi lánchid), completed in 1849, the
oldest, arguably most beautiful and certainly the most photographed of
Budapest's bridges, floodlit at night
- Elizabeth Bridge (Erzsébet híd), completed in 1903.
Originally it was a chain structure bridge as the Chain Bridge; it was
exploded by the Germans in 1945. The present modern cable bridge opened in
1964.
- Liberty Bridge (Szabadság híd), elegant but simple, opened
1896; connects the Gellert Baths on
Buda
with the Great Market Hall on
Pest
- Petőfi Bridge (Petőfi híd), for a long time the southernmost
bridge, with quite large traffic, linking the Great-boulevard of Pest with
Buda.
- Lágymányosi Bridge (Lágymányosi híd), the newest bridge in
Budapest, with modern architecture and a spectacular lighting system, where
mirrors reflect the beam of the upward facing floodlights.
Districts
Budapest is administratively divided into 23 districts, but for time being
Wikitravel uses a simpler division:
-
Buda — the hilly west side of the Danube (Districts I-III, XI-XII)
-
Castle Hill — District I of Buda, the oldest part of the city containing
the eponymous Castle and many of Budapest's best-known attractions
-
Pest — the flat east side of the Danube, covering the modern commercial
core of the city (Districts V-IX)
Get in
By plane
Ferihegy International Airport (BUD, Ferihegyi nemzetközi
repülőtér; pronounced "Ferry-hed'") is the country's largest airport and the
hub of the Hungarian national carrier
Malév (http://www.malev.com). It
has two terminals a few kilometers apart, imaginatively entitled "Terminal 1"
and "Terminal 2", but since all international flights now use Terminal 2 and
there are no scheduled national flights, you are unlikely to ever see Terminal
1. This is a Good Thing, since Terminal 1 (opened May 7, 1950) was built by the
Soviets and looks like it, while Terminal 2 (dated November 1, 1985) is
spacious, well-lit and squeaky clean. Terminal 2 is further split into terminal
2A, used exclusively by Malév, and 2B, used by everybody else, but this
distinction is largely theoretical since the terminals are in the same building
and about 5 mins on foot from each other.
One way of getting to and from the airport is to take the Airport Minibus,
a "shared taxi"-type operation that rounds up passengers going in the same
direction and will take you to or from anywhere in Budapest for a flat fee of
2100 forint per person. Join the queue at the airport and you'll be on your way
in 15 minutes; for the trip back, call the center (pref. with 24h advance
notice) and they'll be there to pick you up.
Another option is to take a normal taxi. It's somewhat faster than the
Airport Minibus and if your not travelling alone it will also be cheaper, the
official fare is around 3500 forint per car.
A third common option is to take the Centrum Bus, which runs every
half hour and, for 600 forints, will take you to central Deák Ferenc
tér/Erzsébet tér and let you fend your way from there.
The cheapest way is to take
Reptér busz (http://www.bkv.hu/angol/busz/reptervissza.html)
to Kőbánya-Kispest, from where you can continue on to central Pest with the blue
metro for a total cost of two tickets (320 forints at time of writing).
By train
Budapest has a number of train stations (pályaudvar), the main ones
being Keleti(Eastern), Déli(Southern) and Nyugati(Western).
Be sure to check where your train is leaving from! The stations aren't named for
their geographic location in the city, but for the direction of the destinations
served by each. For instance trains to Vienna leave from Keleti. Transferring is
fairly painless, as Keleti and Déli are both on the subway red line, while
Nyugati is just a few stops away on the blue line.
By boat
There is a scheduled hydrofoil service on the Danube to and from
Vienna and
Bratislava
daily between early April and early November operated by Mahart
[1] (http://www.web-set.hu/webset32.cgi?Mahart_P@@EN@@38@@370949001).
Get around
Public transportation in Budapest is run by
BKV (http://www.bkv.hu/angol/home/index.html),
which has a useful English-language site. As of July 2005, single tickets cost
170 Ft a pop, or 200 Ft if you buy them on boarding. It's probably best to get a
day pass (1750 Ft)or a discount coupon book (10 tickets for 1450) or a tourist
ticket (2700 for 3 days) rather than try to understand the byzantine system of
transfers, however, or risk getting fined. Most up-to-date information about
tickets and prices can be found
on BKV's ticket and pass information site (http://www.bkv.hu/angol/jegyek/index.html).
One ticket is good for only one direction on one line. Ticketing is apparently
based on the honour system, but they do check tickets at major exits quite
frequently.
The
Budapest Card (http://www.budapestinfo.hu/en/card/main.html)
is an excellent discount card for travel within the city. You can get it in 2 or
3 day versions, and along with allowing free travel on all public transport, it
also gives you discounts at museums, restaurants etc. At time of writing, the
2-day card is 4350 Ft while the 3-day card is 5450 Ft.
By metro
Budapest's metro, consisting of three main lines, is the oldest in
continental Europe. It's in good condition and an excellent way to get around
the city. The yellow M1 line sometimes still uses old wooden metro cars, and is
a fun change from the ordinary, Soviet-style steel metros seen elsewhere in
Central Europe. Sometimes called the Millenary Metro, because it was built to
celebrate the thousandth year of Hungarian nationhood in 1896 along with the
Millenary Monument, the yellow line was recently renovated for its hundredth
anniversary. The stations covered in white and dark brown-red ceramic tile signs
are the originals. They are easily distinguished from the Soviet-style metro
stations and cars on the other two lines, the red M2 line and the blue M3 line.
Please note that the red M2 line is being renovated this summer (2005). From
June 11th till August 19th you'll have to use a replacement bus between stations
Deák tér and Stadionok. Batthány tér station will also be
closed and can be reached by bus from Moszkva tér.
Detailed information can be found here. (http://www.bkv.hu/2metro/metro_felujitas_2005_eng.html)
Be careful of ticket inspectors who prowl the platforms and stations
of Budapest's metro and seem particularly keen to target tourists. You must have
a ticket for each trip or interchange on the metro; pleas of ignorance will go
unheard. If you're issued with an on-the-spot fine by one of these red armbanded
officers, it is cheaper to pay on the spot than later on by mail. The transit
authorities have no power of arrest.
By tram
Trams are tourist-friendly way of getting around, slower but more
scenic than the subway and particularly useful on the nearly subway-less Buda
side of the river.
The two lines serving along the Danube (no. 19 on Buda and no. 2 on Pest) are
considered as a part of the cityscape. Let yourself ride the yellow trams and
enjoy the view from them.
The 4-6 tram is easily the most useful tram in the city, following Pest's
inner ring road, providing access to all three metro lines at multiple stations,
and crossing over to Buda on the Margaret Bridge - another beautiful view.
Although technically two lines, 4 and 6 only diverge for their last two stops,
which the tourist is unlikely to visit.
By bus
Where the trams don't go, there are buses. Budapest has a dense bus
network, also with connections to the surrounding cities.
By train
HÉV suburban railways connect central Budapest to several suburbs but
are of little use to most visitors, with the notable exception of the line to
scenic little upriver
Szentendre.
The same train takes you to
Sziget Fesztivál (http://www.sziget.hu),
Central Europe's biggest summer festival. Connect from Batthyány tér on the
subway red line.
By nightbuses
Budapest has a less frequent and extensive, but still good night
transportation system. Nightbuses have a letter 'É' (éjszakai = night in
Hungarian) in their name like "6É" or "42É". Buses run every 15-60 minutes from
around 11 p.m. until 4 a.m.; you need the same ticket as for daytime. If you
don't want to spend a lot of money on taxi, they can be very useful. Check the
Budapest Transport Plc.'s site (http://www.bkv.hu/angol/ejszakai/index.html)
for the actual lines!
There are plans to extend night bus system in the near future (more lines,
more buses.)
See
Most of Budapest's famous sights are concentrated on
Castle Hill on the
Buda
side, in downtown
Pest
and along the riverside walkways.
The Chain Bridge with Buda Castle Hill in the background
The main sights on
Castle Hill are:
- The Royal Palace (Királyi palota). The most popular
attraction on the hill.
- The National Gallery (Nemzeti Galéria), inside the Royal
Palace wings B, C and D houses an astounding collection of paintings.
- The Fisherman's Bastion and lookout terrace (Halászbástya).
For great view across the Danube to Pest.
- Matthew Church or Church of Our Lady (Mátyás templom).
Dominant neogothic church crowning Budapest's cityscape - nowadays is under
reconstruction.
The Danube Bridges, especially the Chain Bridge (see
Orientation above)
are really attractive and make it worthy to promenade along the river bank. You
can have a superb glimpse over them from the Citadella on the top of
Buda's
Gellert Hill (Gellérthegy).
Margaret Island (Margitsziget) and its large parks (see
Buda)
is a very pleasant place to relax and wander. Perfect for a sunny afternoon!
Downtown (Belváros) of
Pest
is the administrative and business centre of Budapest and the whole of Hungary.
The main sights here are:
- The Parliament Building (Országház). A neogothic confection.
- St. Stephen Cathedral (Szent István Bazilika). The main
church of Budapest is an important example of neoclassical architecture,
recently renovated.
- Great Synagogue and the Jewish Museum (Dohány utcai Zsinagóga)
The biggest Synagogue in Europe.
The Andrássy út boulevard in
Pest
stretches from Downtown (Belváros) to the City Park (Városliget).
It is listed on
UNESCO's World Heritage List and has some important sights along it,
including:
- The State Opera House
- The House of Terror (Terror Háza)
[2] (http://www.terrorhaza.hu/index2.html).
An impressive but depressive museum about Nazi and communist terror.
- The City Park (Városliget) at the far end is probably the
most pleasant of Pest's districts and houses a number of interesting if
low-key attractions which are often overlooked:
- Heroes' square (Hősök tere) - with the Millenium Monument
- Museum of Fine Arts (Szépművészeti Múzeum) has an
incredible range of European artwork from Greek and Roman times to the
present.
Do
- Budapest is a famous spa city, so go bathing! The most famous spas
are the Gellért Baths, which is the tourist option, on the
Buda
side, or the Széchényi Baths right next to the Zoo on the
Pest
side where the locals go.
- Catch the opera at
Pest's
spectacular State Opera or a performance of classical music at any of
Budapest's many concert halls.
- Cinemas (mainly in
Pest)
are a favourite pastime. Not just the big American blockbusters showing in
badly subtitled versions all over the continent, but also smaller art films
most people in their countries of origin haven't seen. Films are almost always
subtitled rather than dubbed, which makes movie-going convenient for
non-Hungarians.
- Cave walking in the
Buda hills. Another way of passing a few hours is to visit the Caves on
the Buda hills. There are 2 major caves, Pálvölgy Cave and Szemlő Hill Cave.
Some of the guides do not speak any English but they give a free English
pamphlet for the tour.
-
Buda Hill Labyrinth. The Labyrinths are accessible by two points on
the Buda hills. Originally parts were formed from hot water springs and then
during WW2, they were linked with some of the cellars on the hill to create an
air raid shelter for up to 10,000 people and a military hospital. The
labyrinth is now a popular tourist attraction.
- Enjoy the many cafés all around Budapest. High concentration of
popular cafeterias are found in Ráday utca and Liszt Ferenc tér.
Or board the A38 boat (at Petőfi Bridge,
Buda
side) for a beer and various music performances. It is floating on River
Danube and considered as one of Europe's coolest clubs.
- Jump in one of the luxurious baths and sp
Buy
Most of the visitors from far away end up shopping in
Pest
in the middle of the city: Váci utca and nearby. It is historically the
most expensive part of the city. You may want to check Nagy Vásárcsarnok
at Fővám tér the recently renovated markethall with essential atmosphere.
Prices may vary greatly.
There are hypermarkets like Auchan, Tesco, Cora where daily stuff and
food is cheap, and they offer usually wide range of articles. The "plaza"s
are usually good for buying clothes, but prices may wildly differ even in the
shops next to each others. For electronics the cheap supermarkets like
Electro World, Media Markt are good targets but their prices match the
quality
Eat
Local specialties include paprikás, gulyás, Lake Balaton
pike-perch (fogas), pörkölt (a goulash-like stew with lots of
onions), halászlé (fishermen's soup served differently by regions),
stuffed cabbage, and liberal use of paprika.
Coffeehouses (kaveház) are a Budapest institution and visit to one
should be on every visitor's agenda. As the name implies, these are places for a
cup of coffee and a delectable pastry, not a full meal
Drink
Budapest offers plenty of places to drink, from cool and ultrahip to rowdy
and downmarket. One particularly Hungarian experience is to visit a borozó
(wine pub), where cheap but tasty Hungarian wine is available on tap, at
ridiculously low prices if you find one off the tourist circuit.
Sleep
Budapest offers a wide range of accommodation in all price classes, although
the costs of staying here are notably higher than elsewhere in Hungary. Arriving
trains are often met by touts offering free rides to hostels, as well as little
old grannies offering their apartments for rent. Try to figure out exactly where
you're going before you choose — or, better yet, visit any of the many travel
agencies to browse the many options in a more comfortable environment.
Budget
- Diáksport Hostel in
Buda. Flagship of Budapest's largest hostel chain. Huge and impersonal,
but a good way to meet... other backpackers.
- Mellow Mood Central Hostel in
Pest. Large hostel in a good location. Full of backpackers and a 24hr bar,
staff are friendly if somewhat inept...
Mid Range
- Leo Panzió in
Buda. Centrally located near Váci utca, this is a small, friendly and
modern three-star hotel
- Radio Inn in
Buda. Small 3-star apartment hotel in a quiet upscale neighborhood, within
easy walking distance of City Park.
- Hotel Wien in
Buda. 15 minutes from the Castle Hill, with very good transportation, even
at night!
Splurge
- Hilton Hotel in
Buda. Excellently located to the north of the Mátyás Templom. You can
decide if the modern architecture with mirrored windows is a triumph of
commercial design or a hideous blight.
- Hotel Gellért in
Buda. The Hotel Gellért**** is one of the most traditional Hotels in
Budapest and Hungary. The Hotel Gellért located in picturesque environment at
the foot of the Gellért Hill, on the bank of the Danube is ideally situated
for both business and leisure travellers. This impressive location is within
walking distance to Budapest's most fashionable shopping and business district
with one of the most beautiful sights of Budapest, the Liberty Bridge. The
Bath operated by the Budapest Association of Spa and Thermal Baths, all
courses of cure can be offered to the Hotel guests.
The hotel's webpage. (http://www.budapest-hotel.hu/hotels/hu/gellert.htm)
Contact
- the most up-to-date list of wireless internet hotspots is available
on this page (http://hotspotter.hu/en/)
Stay safe
- Beware of the pickpockets (virtually everywhere you go nearby humans but
especially on crowded trams and subway).
- Watch your steps: most of the pathways and grassy places are covered with
dog faeces.
- Never give money to policemen (except for bribing, usual bribe amount
varies around 10,000 HUF, but risky): they are not allowed to take cash by
law.
- Avoid walking in the night alone (especially leaving the major roads.).
Survival chances are good but below 100%.
Cope
Get out
- The Skanzen (http://www.skanzen.hu/eng/index_eng.html)
open air museum, just outside
Szentendre
(40 minute train ride from Budapest) is easily reached by bus from the
Szentendre HÉV (communal train) station. This is a huge tract of land
to which ancient buildings have been moved from all parts of the country.
Small farm villages, mostly with thatched roofs, now dot the landscape, along
with barns, outbuildings and even churches. Many are furnished inside. Buy the
English guide book, some of the attendants are very knowledgeable (and some
not so) but few speak English. You could spend a whole day there (we have
spent several) and still have things left to see. There are many ongoing
events offered, especially for families with children.
- Statue Park with the collected memorials of the fallen Communist
regime is located south of
Buda.
External links
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