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Page 1 of 2 A failed or neglected city springs to mind when walking around Macau
during the day time. Around the outskirts of the Islands the doors of
modern buildings never seem to open. Hotel restaurants tend to sole
customers with reluctance: public gardens remain empty except for the
lone tramp rooting around in the bins, roads remain unsullied with tyre
tracks and the silence is loud all around. Inside and up the hill
cracked and uneven pathways run along to meet the next, weeds
compliment the falling cement on graying walls. Unpainted fences
balance precariously around crazy paved basketball pitches whilst
graffiti gives color to an otherwise drab setting.
The Portuguese gave the place some amazing buildings when they ruled
and controlled, in fact Macau was the first European Settlement in the
Far East. The Portuguese beat the Dutch and the British by a hairs
breadth with their establishment of this well positioned and soon to be
rich trading post. Hong Kong, Singapore and .Malacca followed many
years later as the British, Dutch and other nations established a
presence in Far East Asia but at the beginning Macau ruled the roost.
The Dutch tried many times to get hold of the Islands as did the
Spanish and the British once or twice. A prize jewel had Macau become
and Portugal managed to retain control throughout, only really giving
it up in 1999 when they handed it back to mainland China.
China now rules Macau under what has become known as a SAR.
This stands for a Special Administration Region and basically comes
under the Mainland Chinese Policy of "one rule, two systems". A
status-quo in which Macau governs itself for the most part, and it
makes and lives under its own laws, but it belongs to China however it
is run or seen to be run.
Today it is a little paradise steeped in history and culture.
Large imposing, century old structures now vie for space amongst the
tattered remnants of shoddily built 20 century brick houses and
classily built modern glass offices that reach to the sky. Massive and
squat stone offices of a colonial era sit regally and steadfastly among
haphazard and leaning towers of steel girders: gray stone snubs orange
brick and the slate roofs still keep out the water were the tin
cladding has long since failed.
New roads lead around the coast in smooth patterns, over long
and impressive bridges they flow before swooping gracefully in arcs
around flashing advertisements and over reclaimed land that oozes
intent. Newly built high speed, two-lane, motorways pass futuristic
glass structures and cloud hitting spirals, they zoom over decorated
spanned bridges that are a feat to modern engineering, they whiz past
glittering hotels that invite money to be spent and all before lowering
themselves in stature to greet and pass over to times gone by.
Working inwards and upwards modern tarmac meets old cobbles as
the flat ground turns into the steep climb. Little lanes hobble through
culture that crowds-in upon itself. Houses of times past squash and
bulge against each other and hang precariously over paths that defy the
eyes to follow. Hanging baskets swing delicately from balconies that
threaten to pull down the houses that they belong to, whilst open
windows give glimpses to the crowded life beyond.
The modern steels and glass facades of hotels and office
blocks, the colonial stone museums and Portuguese Officialdom of
yesteryear that grace the flatlands around the coast are left behind
when walking inland. The hilly centers of the Islands house the main
population: looking at houses from many years ago the place strikes
chords of a fishing village in Portugal when looking one way and China
Town the next. These small houses built along old cobbled streets crowd
in upon each other and bring life and activity all around.
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